Step 1 of 3

Prepare your workspace

Make sure your work surface is:

• Clean
• Dry
• Flat
• Free from dust or fibres

A smooth craft mat or similar non-porous working surface is ideal.

Apply a very small amount of hand cream or balm to your hands before working with the clay. Silver clay can feel drying on the skin, and a light layer also helps prevent sticking. Avoid using too much — excessive oil or cream transfers to the clay.

Step 1 of 6

Find your ring size

Use the Ring Sizer to determine your normal ring size. Because the clay shrinks during firing, your clay ring needs to be made larger than your final desired size.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage
• +2–3Ring sizes larger

Ring-size systems differ and handmade designs vary in thickness, so treat this as a guideline rather than an exact rule.

Step 2 of 6

Prepare the ring mandrel

Choose a ring size 2–3 sizes larger than your actual ring size to allow for shrinkage during firing. Slide the corresponding ring sizer onto the wooden Ring Mandrel until it fits snugly.

Wrap a strip of paper or a Post-it around the mandrel at this point and secure it with one small piece of adhesive tape. Then, slide the ring sizer back into position and mark the exact point where it sits on the paper. This line will be your guide for where to shape your silver clay ring.

Make sure the paper lies flat and avoid using multiple layers of tape, as this can make the dried ring harder to remove later. Trim away excess paper if necessary and make sure the paper lies flat, without large overlaps or wrinkles.

Step 3 of 6

Shape your silver clay

Take the clay from the pouch and gently roll it between your hands into a ball. Then use the Clay Press to form it into an even roll or coil. For a flatter ring design, carefully flatten the clay into a strip.

• 2–3 mmMinimum thickness

Very thin areas may become fragile during drying, handling or firing. Try to keep the thickness relatively consistent throughout the piece.

Step 4 of 6

Form the ring

Wrap the strip or roll around the prepared section of the mandrel and bring the two ends together. Trim away excess clay using the modelling tool.

Use a small amount of water from the Water Pen to soften the connection, then use the Shaping Tools to blend the ends until both sides become one continuous piece.

Step 6 of 6

Adding stones

Before placing the stone, use the rounded end of one of the Shaping Tools to create a small indentation in the silver clay.

Using the Tweezers, press the stone firmly into the indentation so that it sits deep enough to be securely held in place.

Then, gently bring a little Silver Clay up around the sides of the stone and slightly over the edges to create a secure setting. Don’t worry if the stone becomes partly or even almost completely covered at this stage.

Once the clay is fully dry, you can carefully remove the excess dry clay from the surface of the stone and refine the setting until the stone is visible again.

The stone should feel securely embedded in the clay before firing — if it sits too shallow or too loosely, it may come out during or after firing.

Step 1 of 2

Sand through the grits

• 180Larger imperfections
• 320General refinement
• 1200Smooth surface

Use 180 grit only for larger imperfections, uneven ends or significant shaping. Then 320 for smaller irregularities. For a smoother surface, continue with 1200.

Work slowly and use very little pressure.

Step 1 of 4

Brush out the silver

Use the included Wire Brush to gently brush the entire surface. As you brush, the silver will begin to appear.

Step 3 of 4

Burnish with the agate tool

Rub the smooth edge of the Agate Burnisher across the silver surface. Burnishing compresses and smooths the surface and creates the first noticeable shine.

Work carefully around stones and detailed textures.

Step 4 of 4

Polish to your finish

Finish with the polishing sponge — start with the green side, then finish with the white side. Continue until you reach your preferred finish:

• Soft satin
• Semi-polished
• High shine