Step 1 of 3

Prepare your workspace

Make sure your work surface is:

• Clean
• Dry
• Flat
• Free from dust or fibres

A smooth craft mat or similar non-porous working surface is ideal.

Apply a very small amount of hand cream or balm to your hands before working with the clay. Silver clay can feel drying on the skin, and a light layer also helps prevent sticking. Avoid using too much — excessive oil or cream transfers to the clay.

Step 2 of 3

Decide what you are making

Before opening the pouch, decide roughly what you want to make. We recommend:

• Making a quick sketch
• Saving an inspiration image on your phone
• Having your design idea ready before you begin

This helps you work calmly without wasting valuable working time.

Lay out everything you will need:

• Your Atelaye tools
• A small piece of paper or a Post-it, and tape
• A clean heat-resistant workspace for later firing
• A compatible MSF-1A butane gas canister
• A small container of clean still drinking water
• Water Pen filled with clean still water

Step 3 of 3

Keep your clay workable

If the clay begins to dry while you are working, lightly moisten the surface using the Water Pen. Use only a small amount — too much water makes the clay sticky, weak or difficult to control.

If you are not using all of your silver clay, immediately return the remaining clay to airtight packaging. You can also wrap it in a slightly damp, fragrance-free baby wipe before sealing it inside an airtight bag or container.

Step 1 of 7

Find your ring size

Use the Ring Sizer to determine your normal ring size. Because the clay shrinks during firing, your clay ring needs to be made larger than your final desired size.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage
• +2–3Ring sizes larger

Ring-size systems differ and handmade designs vary in thickness, so treat this as a guideline rather than an exact rule.

Step 2 of 7

Prepare the ring mandrel

Locate the correct larger size on the wooden Ring Mandrel. Wrap a strip of paper or a Post-it around the mandrel at this point and secure it with tape.

The paper creates a removable layer between the clay and the wooden mandrel, and makes removing the dry ring much safer later.

Trim away excess paper if necessary. Make sure the paper lies flat, without large overlaps or wrinkles.

Step 3 of 7

Shape your silver clay

Take the clay from the pouch and gently roll it between your hands into a ball. Then use the Clay Press to form it into an even roll or coil. For a flatter ring design, carefully flatten the clay into a strip.

• 2–3 mmMinimum thickness

Very thin areas may become fragile during drying, handling or firing. Try to keep the thickness relatively consistent throughout the piece.

Step 4 of 7

Form the ring

Wrap the strip or roll around the prepared section of the mandrel and bring the two ends together. Trim away excess clay using the modelling tool.

Use a small amount of water from the Water Pen to soften the connection, then use the Shaping Tools to blend the seam until both sides become one continuous piece.

Step 5 of 7

Shape, texture and personalise

Now you can make the ring your own:

• Add organic texture
• Use the modelling tool
• Press patterns into the surface
• Create intentional irregularities
• Add stones
• Build additional details using small amounts of clay

Perfectly smooth does not always mean better. Silver clay works beautifully with organic surfaces, imperfect edges and subtle textures.

Hold the mandrel as upright as possible while working so the soft clay does not sag. If your ring becomes too loose, carefully shorten the clay and reconnect the seam.

Step 6 of 7

Adding stones

Using the Tweezer, gently press the stone into the clay. The stone should sit securely enough that the surrounding clay holds it in position. For added security, you can gently build the clay around part of the stone.

Do not simply place a stone loosely on the surface. Remember that the clay shrinks around the stone during firing.

Step 7 of 7

Creating a prong-style setting

Especially useful for the larger Atelaye Solo Stones.

Take a small amount of silver clay and form several tiny balls. Roll each into a small thin piece using the Clay Press or your fingers. Position the clay slightly over the edge of the stone.

Use a very small amount of water to attach the clay securely to the main piece, then gently blend the ends into the ring using the Shaping Tools.

The clay should hold the stone securely without unnecessarily covering it. Allow the setting to dry completely before refining it.

Step 1 of 2

Shape your pendant

Roll or flatten the silver clay, then cut or shape it into your desired form.

• 2 mmMinimum thickness

You can now add texture, press in patterns, create organic edges, add initials or symbols, and add stones.

If adding stones, use the Tweezer to gently press them into the clay. Make sure the surrounding clay securely holds the stone — you can add a small amount of clay around the setting if needed.

Step 2 of 2

Create the hanging point

Either create a hole for a jump ring or chain, or form a small bail or loop from silver clay.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage to allow for

Make sure the opening stays large enough to remain usable after shrinkage.

Step 1 of 2

Sand through the grits

• 180Larger imperfections
• 320General refinement
• 1200Smooth surface

Use 180 grit only for larger imperfections, uneven seams or significant shaping. Then 320 for smaller irregularities. For a smoother surface, continue with 1200.

Work slowly and use very little pressure.

Step 2 of 2

Final check before firing

Once fired, reshaping the piece becomes considerably more difficult. If something does not look right now, fix it before firing.

• Completely dry
• Free from visible cracks
• Structurally stable
• Properly refined
• Free from loose stones
• Free from loose clay particles

Step 1 of 4

Brush out the silver

Use the included Wire Brush to gently brush the entire surface. As you brush, the silver will begin to appear.

Step 2 of 4

Refine the fired silver

• 1200Small imperfections
• 3000Finer finish

At this stage your piece is solid silver, so you can work with slightly more confidence than during the dry-clay stage. Still avoid unnecessary aggressive sanding, particularly around thin areas and stone settings.

Step 3 of 4

Burnish with the agate tool

Rub the smooth edge of the Agate Burnisher across the silver surface. Burnishing compresses and smooths the surface and creates the first noticeable shine.

Work carefully around stones and detailed textures.

Step 4 of 4

Polish to your finish

Finish with the polishing sponge — start with the green side, then finish with the white side. Continue until you reach your preferred finish:

• Soft satin
• Semi-polished
• High shine

Step 1 of 3

Prepare your workspace

Make sure your work surface is:

• Clean
• Dry
• Flat
• Free from dust or fibres

A smooth craft mat or similar non-porous working surface is ideal.

Apply a very small amount of hand cream or balm to your hands before working with the clay. Silver clay can feel drying on the skin, and a light layer also helps prevent sticking. Avoid using too much — excessive oil or cream transfers to the clay.

Step 2 of 3

Decide what you are making

Before opening the pouch, decide roughly what you want to make. We recommend:

• Making a quick sketch
• Saving an inspiration image on your phone
• Having your design idea ready before you begin

This helps you work calmly without wasting valuable working time.

Lay out everything you will need:

• Your Atelaye tools
• A small piece of paper or a Post-it, and tape
• A clean heat-resistant workspace for later firing
• A compatible MSF-1A butane gas canister
• A small container of clean still drinking water
• Water Pen filled with clean still water

Step 3 of 3

Keep your clay workable

If the clay begins to dry while you are working, lightly moisten the surface using the Water Pen. Use only a small amount — too much water makes the clay sticky, weak or difficult to control.

If you are not using all of your silver clay, immediately return the remaining clay to airtight packaging. You can also wrap it in a slightly damp, fragrance-free baby wipe before sealing it inside an airtight bag or container.

Step 1 of 7

Find your ring size

Use the Ring Sizer to determine your normal ring size. Because the clay shrinks during firing, your clay ring needs to be made larger than your final desired size.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage
• +2–3Ring sizes larger

Ring-size systems differ and handmade designs vary in thickness, so treat this as a guideline rather than an exact rule.

Step 2 of 7

Prepare the ring mandrel

Locate the correct larger size on the wooden Ring Mandrel. Wrap a strip of paper or a Post-it around the mandrel at this point and secure it with tape.

The paper creates a removable layer between the clay and the wooden mandrel, and makes removing the dry ring much safer later.

Trim away excess paper if necessary. Make sure the paper lies flat, without large overlaps or wrinkles.

Step 3 of 7

Shape your silver clay

Take the clay from the pouch and gently roll it between your hands into a ball. Then use the Clay Press to form it into an even roll or coil. For a flatter ring design, carefully flatten the clay into a strip.

• 2–3 mmMinimum thickness

Very thin areas may become fragile during drying, handling or firing. Try to keep the thickness relatively consistent throughout the piece.

Step 4 of 7

Form the ring

Wrap the strip or roll around the prepared section of the mandrel and bring the two ends together. Trim away excess clay using the modelling tool.

Use a small amount of water from the Water Pen to soften the connection, then use the Shaping Tools to blend the seam until both sides become one continuous piece.

Step 5 of 7

Shape, texture and personalise

Now you can make the ring your own:

• Add organic texture
• Use the modelling tool
• Press patterns into the surface
• Create intentional irregularities
• Add stones
• Build additional details using small amounts of clay

Perfectly smooth does not always mean better. Silver clay works beautifully with organic surfaces, imperfect edges and subtle textures.

Hold the mandrel as upright as possible while working so the soft clay does not sag. If your ring becomes too loose, carefully shorten the clay and reconnect the seam.

Step 6 of 7

Adding stones

Using the Tweezer, gently press the stone into the clay. The stone should sit securely enough that the surrounding clay holds it in position. For added security, you can gently build the clay around part of the stone.

Do not simply place a stone loosely on the surface. Remember that the clay shrinks around the stone during firing.

Step 7 of 7

Creating a prong-style setting

Especially useful for the larger Atelaye Solo Stones.

Take a small amount of silver clay and form several tiny balls. Roll each into a small thin piece using the Clay Press or your fingers. Position the clay slightly over the edge of the stone.

Use a very small amount of water to attach the clay securely to the main piece, then gently blend the ends into the ring using the Shaping Tools.

The clay should hold the stone securely without unnecessarily covering it. Allow the setting to dry completely before refining it.

Step 1 of 2

Shape your pendant

Roll or flatten the silver clay, then cut or shape it into your desired form.

• 2 mmMinimum thickness

You can now add texture, press in patterns, create organic edges, add initials or symbols, and add stones.

If adding stones, use the Tweezer to gently press them into the clay. Make sure the surrounding clay securely holds the stone — you can add a small amount of clay around the setting if needed.

Step 2 of 2

Create the hanging point

Either create a hole for a jump ring or chain, or form a small bail or loop from silver clay.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage to allow for

Make sure the opening stays large enough to remain usable after shrinkage.

Step 1 of 2

Sand through the grits

• 180Larger imperfections
• 320General refinement
• 1200Smooth surface

Use 180 grit only for larger imperfections, uneven seams or significant shaping. Then 320 for smaller irregularities. For a smoother surface, continue with 1200.

Work slowly and use very little pressure.

Step 2 of 2

Final check before firing

Once fired, reshaping the piece becomes considerably more difficult. If something does not look right now, fix it before firing.

• Completely dry
• Free from visible cracks
• Structurally stable
• Properly refined
• Free from loose stones
• Free from loose clay particles

Step 1 of 4

Brush out the silver

Use the included Wire Brush to gently brush the entire surface. As you brush, the silver will begin to appear.

Step 2 of 4

Refine the fired silver

• 1200Small imperfections
• 3000Finer finish

At this stage your piece is solid silver, so you can work with slightly more confidence than during the dry-clay stage. Still avoid unnecessary aggressive sanding, particularly around thin areas and stone settings.

Step 3 of 4

Burnish with the agate tool

Rub the smooth edge of the Agate Burnisher across the silver surface. Burnishing compresses and smooths the surface and creates the first noticeable shine.

Work carefully around stones and detailed textures.

Step 4 of 4

Polish to your finish

Finish with the polishing sponge — start with the green side, then finish with the white side. Continue until you reach your preferred finish:

• Soft satin
• Semi-polished
• High shine

Step 1 of 3

Prepare your workspace

Make sure your work surface is:

• Clean
• Dry
• Flat
• Free from dust or fibres

A smooth craft mat or similar non-porous working surface is ideal.

Apply a very small amount of hand cream or balm to your hands before working with the clay. Silver clay can feel drying on the skin, and a light layer also helps prevent sticking. Avoid using too much — excessive oil or cream transfers to the clay.

Step 2 of 3

Decide what you are making

Before opening the pouch, decide roughly what you want to make. We recommend:

• Making a quick sketch
• Saving an inspiration image on your phone
• Having your design idea ready before you begin

This helps you work calmly without wasting valuable working time.

Lay out everything you will need:

• Your Atelaye tools
• A small piece of paper or a Post-it, and tape
• A clean heat-resistant workspace for later firing
• A compatible MSF-1A butane gas canister
• A small container of clean still drinking water
• Water Pen filled with clean still water

Step 3 of 3

Keep your clay workable

If the clay begins to dry while you are working, lightly moisten the surface using the Water Pen. Use only a small amount — too much water makes the clay sticky, weak or difficult to control.

If you are not using all of your silver clay, immediately return the remaining clay to airtight packaging. You can also wrap it in a slightly damp, fragrance-free baby wipe before sealing it inside an airtight bag or container.

Step 1 of 7

Find your ring size

Use the Ring Sizer to determine your normal ring size. Because the clay shrinks during firing, your clay ring needs to be made larger than your final desired size.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage
• +2–3Ring sizes larger

Ring-size systems differ and handmade designs vary in thickness, so treat this as a guideline rather than an exact rule.

Step 2 of 7

Prepare the ring mandrel

Locate the correct larger size on the wooden Ring Mandrel. Wrap a strip of paper or a Post-it around the mandrel at this point and secure it with tape.

The paper creates a removable layer between the clay and the wooden mandrel, and makes removing the dry ring much safer later.

Trim away excess paper if necessary. Make sure the paper lies flat, without large overlaps or wrinkles.

Step 3 of 7

Shape your silver clay

Take the clay from the pouch and gently roll it between your hands into a ball. Then use the Clay Press to form it into an even roll or coil. For a flatter ring design, carefully flatten the clay into a strip.

• 2–3 mmMinimum thickness

Very thin areas may become fragile during drying, handling or firing. Try to keep the thickness relatively consistent throughout the piece.

Step 4 of 7

Form the ring

Wrap the strip or roll around the prepared section of the mandrel and bring the two ends together. Trim away excess clay using the modelling tool.

Use a small amount of water from the Water Pen to soften the connection, then use the Shaping Tools to blend the seam until both sides become one continuous piece.

Step 5 of 7

Shape, texture and personalise

Now you can make the ring your own:

• Add organic texture
• Use the modelling tool
• Press patterns into the surface
• Create intentional irregularities
• Add stones
• Build additional details using small amounts of clay

Perfectly smooth does not always mean better. Silver clay works beautifully with organic surfaces, imperfect edges and subtle textures.

Hold the mandrel as upright as possible while working so the soft clay does not sag. If your ring becomes too loose, carefully shorten the clay and reconnect the seam.

Step 6 of 7

Adding stones

Using the Tweezer, gently press the stone into the clay. The stone should sit securely enough that the surrounding clay holds it in position. For added security, you can gently build the clay around part of the stone.

Do not simply place a stone loosely on the surface. Remember that the clay shrinks around the stone during firing.

Step 7 of 7

Creating a prong-style setting

Especially useful for the larger Atelaye Solo Stones.

Take a small amount of silver clay and form several tiny balls. Roll each into a small thin piece using the Clay Press or your fingers. Position the clay slightly over the edge of the stone.

Use a very small amount of water to attach the clay securely to the main piece, then gently blend the ends into the ring using the Shaping Tools.

The clay should hold the stone securely without unnecessarily covering it. Allow the setting to dry completely before refining it.

Step 1 of 2

Shape your pendant

Roll or flatten the silver clay, then cut or shape it into your desired form.

• 2 mmMinimum thickness

You can now add texture, press in patterns, create organic edges, add initials or symbols, and add stones.

If adding stones, use the Tweezer to gently press them into the clay. Make sure the surrounding clay securely holds the stone — you can add a small amount of clay around the setting if needed.

Step 2 of 2

Create the hanging point

Either create a hole for a jump ring or chain, or form a small bail or loop from silver clay.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage to allow for

Make sure the opening stays large enough to remain usable after shrinkage.

Step 1 of 2

Sand through the grits

• 180Larger imperfections
• 320General refinement
• 1200Smooth surface

Use 180 grit only for larger imperfections, uneven seams or significant shaping. Then 320 for smaller irregularities. For a smoother surface, continue with 1200.

Work slowly and use very little pressure.

Step 2 of 2

Final check before firing

Once fired, reshaping the piece becomes considerably more difficult. If something does not look right now, fix it before firing.

• Completely dry
• Free from visible cracks
• Structurally stable
• Properly refined
• Free from loose stones
• Free from loose clay particles

Step 1 of 4

Brush out the silver

Use the included Wire Brush to gently brush the entire surface. As you brush, the silver will begin to appear.

Step 2 of 4

Refine the fired silver

• 1200Small imperfections
• 3000Finer finish

At this stage your piece is solid silver, so you can work with slightly more confidence than during the dry-clay stage. Still avoid unnecessary aggressive sanding, particularly around thin areas and stone settings.

Step 3 of 4

Burnish with the agate tool

Rub the smooth edge of the Agate Burnisher across the silver surface. Burnishing compresses and smooths the surface and creates the first noticeable shine.

Work carefully around stones and detailed textures.

Step 4 of 4

Polish to your finish

Finish with the polishing sponge — start with the green side, then finish with the white side. Continue until you reach your preferred finish:

• Soft satin
• Semi-polished
• High shine

Step 1 of 3

Prepare your workspace

Make sure your work surface is:

• Clean
• Dry
• Flat
• Free from dust or fibres

A smooth craft mat or similar non-porous working surface is ideal.

Apply a very small amount of hand cream or balm to your hands before working with the clay. Silver clay can feel drying on the skin, and a light layer also helps prevent sticking. Avoid using too much — excessive oil or cream transfers to the clay.

Step 2 of 3

Decide what you are making

Before opening the pouch, decide roughly what you want to make. We recommend:

• Making a quick sketch
• Saving an inspiration image on your phone
• Having your design idea ready before you begin

This helps you work calmly without wasting valuable working time.

Lay out everything you will need:

• Your Atelaye tools
• A small piece of paper or a Post-it, and tape
• A clean heat-resistant workspace for later firing
• A compatible MSF-1A butane gas canister
• A small container of clean still drinking water
• Water Pen filled with clean still water

Step 3 of 3

Keep your clay workable

If the clay begins to dry while you are working, lightly moisten the surface using the Water Pen. Use only a small amount — too much water makes the clay sticky, weak or difficult to control.

If you are not using all of your silver clay, immediately return the remaining clay to airtight packaging. You can also wrap it in a slightly damp, fragrance-free baby wipe before sealing it inside an airtight bag or container.

Step 1 of 7

Find your ring size

Use the Ring Sizer to determine your normal ring size. Because the clay shrinks during firing, your clay ring needs to be made larger than your final desired size.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage
• +2–3Ring sizes larger

Ring-size systems differ and handmade designs vary in thickness, so treat this as a guideline rather than an exact rule.

Step 2 of 7

Prepare the ring mandrel

Locate the correct larger size on the wooden Ring Mandrel. Wrap a strip of paper or a Post-it around the mandrel at this point and secure it with tape.

The paper creates a removable layer between the clay and the wooden mandrel, and makes removing the dry ring much safer later.

Trim away excess paper if necessary. Make sure the paper lies flat, without large overlaps or wrinkles.

Step 3 of 7

Shape your silver clay

Take the clay from the pouch and gently roll it between your hands into a ball. Then use the Clay Press to form it into an even roll or coil. For a flatter ring design, carefully flatten the clay into a strip.

• 2–3 mmMinimum thickness

Very thin areas may become fragile during drying, handling or firing. Try to keep the thickness relatively consistent throughout the piece.

Step 4 of 7

Form the ring

Wrap the strip or roll around the prepared section of the mandrel and bring the two ends together. Trim away excess clay using the modelling tool.

Use a small amount of water from the Water Pen to soften the connection, then use the Shaping Tools to blend the seam until both sides become one continuous piece.

Step 5 of 7

Shape, texture and personalise

Now you can make the ring your own:

• Add organic texture
• Use the modelling tool
• Press patterns into the surface
• Create intentional irregularities
• Add stones
• Build additional details using small amounts of clay

Perfectly smooth does not always mean better. Silver clay works beautifully with organic surfaces, imperfect edges and subtle textures.

Hold the mandrel as upright as possible while working so the soft clay does not sag. If your ring becomes too loose, carefully shorten the clay and reconnect the seam.

Step 6 of 7

Adding stones

Using the Tweezer, gently press the stone into the clay. The stone should sit securely enough that the surrounding clay holds it in position. For added security, you can gently build the clay around part of the stone.

Do not simply place a stone loosely on the surface. Remember that the clay shrinks around the stone during firing.

Step 7 of 7

Creating a prong-style setting

Especially useful for the larger Atelaye Solo Stones.

Take a small amount of silver clay and form several tiny balls. Roll each into a small thin piece using the Clay Press or your fingers. Position the clay slightly over the edge of the stone.

Use a very small amount of water to attach the clay securely to the main piece, then gently blend the ends into the ring using the Shaping Tools.

The clay should hold the stone securely without unnecessarily covering it. Allow the setting to dry completely before refining it.

Step 1 of 2

Shape your pendant

Roll or flatten the silver clay, then cut or shape it into your desired form.

• 2 mmMinimum thickness

You can now add texture, press in patterns, create organic edges, add initials or symbols, and add stones.

If adding stones, use the Tweezer to gently press them into the clay. Make sure the surrounding clay securely holds the stone — you can add a small amount of clay around the setting if needed.

Step 2 of 2

Create the hanging point

Either create a hole for a jump ring or chain, or form a small bail or loop from silver clay.

• 10–13 %Shrinkage to allow for

Make sure the opening stays large enough to remain usable after shrinkage.

Step 1 of 2

Sand through the grits

• 180Larger imperfections
• 320General refinement
• 1200Smooth surface

Use 180 grit only for larger imperfections, uneven seams or significant shaping. Then 320 for smaller irregularities. For a smoother surface, continue with 1200.

Work slowly and use very little pressure.

Step 2 of 2

Final check before firing

Once fired, reshaping the piece becomes considerably more difficult. If something does not look right now, fix it before firing.

• Completely dry
• Free from visible cracks
• Structurally stable
• Properly refined
• Free from loose stones
• Free from loose clay particles

Step 1 of 4

Brush out the silver

Use the included Wire Brush to gently brush the entire surface. As you brush, the silver will begin to appear.

Step 2 of 4

Refine the fired silver

• 1200Small imperfections
• 3000Finer finish

At this stage your piece is solid silver, so you can work with slightly more confidence than during the dry-clay stage. Still avoid unnecessary aggressive sanding, particularly around thin areas and stone settings.

Step 3 of 4

Burnish with the agate tool

Rub the smooth edge of the Agate Burnisher across the silver surface. Burnishing compresses and smooths the surface and creates the first noticeable shine.

Work carefully around stones and detailed textures.

Step 4 of 4

Polish to your finish

Finish with the polishing sponge — start with the green side, then finish with the white side. Continue until you reach your preferred finish:

• Soft satin
• Semi-polished
• High shine